Yeasted dough can generally be kept in the refrigerator for 1–3 days; the first 24 hours are the safest range for most recipes. Cold does not stop fermentation, only slows it down, so the dough continues working during that time. As the time increases, flavor deepens, but eventually the dough becomes slack and sour and does not rise well in the oven. The benefit is flavor; the tradeoff is a looser dough.
At refrigerator temperature, yeast does not stop; it slows down. Gas production drops noticeably, while the processes that create flavor slow down less, which is where the benefit comes from. The dough keeps fermenting for hours, even days, as flavor compounds from the flour and yeast build up. At the same time, the gluten slowly relaxes, so dough taken from the refrigerator is generally easier to shape and springs back less. Cold fermentation is not a way to store dough; it is fermentation slowed down, and its timing still needs to be monitored.
The practical range is 1–3 days. For most bread and pizza dough, 24 hours is both safe and effective. 48 hours deepens the flavor further and is often preferred for pizza dough. Beyond 3 days, the dough starts to slacken, its surface becomes wet, and its flavor turns sharply sour. You can extend the time by using less yeast; dough made with a generous amount of yeast can overproof quickly even in the refrigerator.
Put the dough in a covered container with a capacity at least 2 times the dough’s volume; it continues to rise even in the cold and can overflow a small container. Close the lid tightly or cover the container with plastic wrap, because an exposed surface dries out and forms a skin. Put the dough on a middle shelf, not the coldest shelf; areas near the door are subject to temperature fluctuations that make timing unpredictable. It also helps to write the date and time on the container, since after a few days it can be hard to remember when each dough was made.
You can shape dough straight from the refrigerator or let it sit at room temperature for a while. Cold dough is easier to roll out and less sticky, which is a clear advantage for pizza and borek dough. After shaping, let it rise at room temperature; this takes longer because the dough needs to warm up first. Depending on the dough’s thickness and the kitchen temperature, this takes 1–3 hours. If a large batch is divided into several pieces and placed in separate containers, you can use it over several days and take out each piece when needed.
Decide when to take the dough out by looking at it. It is ready when visible bubbles have formed in the container, its volume has increased noticeably, and the surface is domed. If gray liquid has collected on the surface, the dough has collapsed, and a sharp sour smell has developed, it has gone too far. It will not provide rise as bread, but you can still use it in foods that do not need to rise, such as crepes, gözleme, or lavash, rather than wasting it. The same method is used with cookie and tart dough, but there the goal is to firm up the fat, not ferment the dough.
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