How to Choose Sumac and Tell Whether It Contains Salt

Sumac is made by drying and grinding clusters of red berries from the sumac tree. Its tartness comes from acids in the fruit’s skin and gives it a milder, lightly fruity flavor than lemon. Salt is traditionally added when sumac is processed; it balances the tartness and helps preserve the product. That is why two types of sumac, salted and unsalted, are sold in grocery stores and spice shops. These two types are hard to distinguish by appearance when placed side by side, but the amount of salt they add to a dish is noticeably different.

For packaged sumac, check the ingredient list first. A product that lists only sumac is unsalted; one that lists sumac and salt is salted. Also check the order of the ingredients: if salt appears near the beginning of the list, the product is noticeably salty. For loose sumac, sprinkle a small pinch in a thin layer on a piece of white paper. In salted sumac, shiny white crystals are visible among the red particles. Put a pinch on the tip of your tongue: salted sumac tastes salty first, then tart, while unsalted sumac tastes tart right away.

Color, aroma, and texture indicate quality. Good sumac is matte, with a color between deep burgundy and red. An unusually bright, eye-catching red or sumac that easily stains your fingers may have added coloring. Its aroma should be tangy, fruity, and noticeable; sumac with a weak aroma is stale. It should be dry and loose. Sumac that is clumped, damp, or feels oily may not have been dried well or stored properly and is prone to mold. Buy loose sumac in small amounts; sumac used quickly is always more aromatic.

Adjust the salt in a dish when using salted sumac. If onion salad served with kebab, kisir, or shepherd’s salad is made with salted sumac, reduce or omit any additional salt in the salad. One 15 ml measure of salted sumac can supply a significant portion of the salt in a bowl of salad. With unsalted sumac, salt the salad as usual. If you do not know which kind of sumac is being used, dress the salad without salt first, then taste it after adding the sumac.

Sumac is affected by light and moisture. Stored in a closed jar in a cool, dark cupboard, it keeps most of its color and aroma for one year. Sumac left beside the stove or in an open container fades and loses its aroma quickly. Sumac is usually sprinkled over food after cooking, when serving; prolonged cooking reduces its tartness and color. Choosing fresh, aromatic sumac makes a noticeable difference when sprinkling it over a cooked dish or using it in a salad.