How to Get Crispy Fish Skin

It all starts with drying. There is an invisible layer of moisture on the skin, and browning cannot begin until that water evaporates; wet skin only steams in the pan. Pat the fish thoroughly dry on its 2 sides with paper towels. For an extra step, leave the fish on an uncovered plate in the refrigerator for half an hour or a few hours; the cold air dries the skin’s surface and noticeably improves the result. Put the plate on the bottom shelf, away from ready-to-eat foods, so its juices cannot drip onto other food. Salt also helps dry it.

Heat the pan or grill grate thoroughly before adding the fish. Fish placed on a lukewarm surface sticks, and the skin can stay behind when you lift it. Add oil after the pan is hot; a thin layer is enough because the skin will release some of its own fat. Choose an oil with a high smoke point. Do not start with butter because it browns too quickly; if you want to use it, add it in the final minute of cooking after lowering the heat, then spoon it over the fish. The pan itself should also have a thick, flat bottom; a thin pan loses its heat suddenly when the fish is added.

Place the fish skin-side down in the pan, then immediately press it for a few seconds with a wide spatula. The skin contracts from the heat and the fillet lifts in the middle, leaving its center out of contact with the pan while the edges touch it. Pressing prevents the fish from lifting and keeps the entire skin in contact with the surface. Apply even, gentle pressure. After the first few seconds, the skin settles into place and no more pressing is needed.

After that, be patient. Once the fish is in the pan, do not move it: do not slide it, lift it to check, or turn it over. When the skin browns and forms a crust, it releases from the pan on its own and the spatula slides underneath easily. Spend three-quarters of the total cooking time skin-side down. Watch the color change as it moves up from the edges; when it approaches the top surface of the flesh, turn the fish and cook the flesh side for only 1 or 2 minutes. When cooking multiple pieces, do not crowd the pan; leave visible space between the pieces.

Do not place cooked fish on a paper towel; the paper traps steam underneath and softens the newly formed crust within minutes. Transfer the fish to a wire rack or directly to a plate with the skin facing up. Do not pour sauce over the skin; put it along the edge of or underneath the fish instead. The same principles apply in the oven and on the grill: dry skin, a hot surface, and no touching. Skin will not become crisp when steamed or cooked in a liquid dish.