Should Fish Come to Room Temperature Before Cooking?

For red meat, this recommendation is intended to reduce the temperature difference between the outside and center of thick cuts. A thick roast straight from the refrigerator has a very cold center, so the outside can overcook before the roast reaches its target; letting it sit for a while narrows that gap somewhat. The effect is debated and limited to thick cuts; the difference is almost impossible to measure in a thin steak. In other words, the recommendation was developed to solve a problem that does not arise with fish and cannot simply be applied to it.

Fish is usually cooked in pieces no more than two to three centimeters thick, and it takes only minutes for heat to reach the center. Starting at refrigerator temperature adds only one or two minutes, not enough to burn the outer layers. Fish also falls apart less easily when cold; a cold fillet keeps its shape when it goes into the pan, while a warmed fillet breaks under the spatula. So starting cold is not a problem with fish and is often an advantage. Even with thick slices of tuna and salmon, the difference is limited to a few minutes and is not visibly reflected in the cooking time.

Waiting also has a cost, and with fish that cost matters more. The microorganisms on fish are species that live in cold seawater and multiply very quickly at room temperature. Fish’s thin structure also speeds up this warming; a piece warms from the outside inward in a few minutes. For this reason, do not leave fish on the counter; keep it refrigerated even while marinating, and minimize the time before cooking. The same rule applies to shellfish and shrimp; keep them cold until they are ready to cook as well.

There is no need to eliminate resting time altogether. Fish can be taken out of the refrigerator before cooking and left on the counter for no more than 10–15 minutes; that is enough time to dry, salt, and season the surface. The goal is to prepare it, not to warm it up. The time may be extended a little for thick slices of salmon and tuna. Shorten it in summer or in a warm kitchen, and do the prep right by the refrigerator door. This time can also be used to heat the pan, so it is already hot when the fish is ready.

The most important task during this brief wait is drying. Pat the fish thoroughly dry with a paper towel; wet fish will not sear in a pan, its skin will not crisp, and flour will not stick. Salt it at this stage, but close to cooking time, because salting too early draws out water and makes the surface wet again. Do not let frozen fish sit out; thaw it in the refrigerator or cook it directly from frozen, and never thaw it on the counter. If marinating fish, put the container directly in the refrigerator and keep the time to a matter of minutes.