A traditional rule says to avoid bivalves in months without the letter R in their names—that is, May, June, July, and August. There are two real reasons behind the rule: water warms up in the warmer months, so shellfish spoil much faster, and this period also coincides with spawning, when mussel meat becomes less plump. Today, the cold chain and monitoring are the main factors.
The rule dates back to a time before refrigeration was available. In summer, the sea warms up, shellfish spoil much faster before they reach the market, and there was no cold chain to prevent this under the conditions of the time. The four months without the letter R in their names fall exactly in the hottest part of summer, which made the rule easy to remember. In other words, it is a practical reminder, not a fixed calendar, and it is not followed in the same way under today’s conditions.
The second reason concerns cooking quality and still applies today. Bivalves spawn in warming water; during this period, they put their energy into reproduction, so their meat shrinks, becomes watery, and loses its plumpness. There is less meat from the same weight, and the flavor is blander. That is why mussels and oysters are noticeably plumper and tastier in cooler months. This is a quality issue, not a safety issue, but it should be considered alongside the price at the market.
Today, three things matter. First is the cold chain: if shellfish have been kept cold continuously from harvest to the market, the season becomes a secondary consideration. Second is the source; bivalves feed by filtering the water they live in, so the water they come from matters, and those waters are monitored regularly. Third is the vendor: a stall that keeps the shellfish alive, on ice, and moving quickly offers the best assurance. It is also a good sign if the stall displays where the shellfish came from, and there is no reason to hesitate to ask. Still, none of this makes raw shellfish safe: harmful germs can be present in any month and cannot be detected by look, smell, or taste; only thorough cooking kills them.
In practice, be cautious. Do not rule out bivalves completely in summer, but be more selective: buy them from a place with a known source that keeps them alive and sells them quickly, cook them the same day, and do not eat them raw. In cooler months, shellfish are both plumper and safer, and there is also more variety. Always check that they are alive: discard any that remain open and do not close when tapped, and discard any that do not open after cooking.
Collecting mussels yourself from the shore is a separate matter and is not recommended. Bivalves feed by filtering water, so the water they live in directly affects the shellfish; there is no way to know the condition of mussels collected from unmonitored water, because contamination may not be detectable by smell or appearance. Always buy shellfish from a licensed vendor. For the same reason, stuffed mussels left uncovered and warm on the street should not be considered safe. The same standard applies to all open-air seafood sold along the shore; do not buy any product that has not been kept cold.
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