The rice is hot and coated with oil after toasting. When cold water is poured over it, the pot’s temperature drops suddenly, boiling stops, and the grains begin absorbing water unevenly. The sudden temperature change can also crack the surface of the grains. Hot water lets cooking continue without interruption; all the grains begin to swell at the same time, so the pilaf cooks evenly.
When toasting is finished, the pot and rice are quite hot. When cold water is poured in, much of this heat goes into warming the water, and several minutes pass before the pot returns to a boil. During those minutes, the rice sits in lukewarm water; some grains have started absorbing water while others have not. The result is uneven cooking and an inconsistent texture. That is why the success of pilaf can depend on an easily overlooked detail such as the water temperature. The water temperature is as important to the result as the rice-to-water ratio.
The second problem lies in the grain itself. When cold water hits a hot, dry grain, its outer layer cools and contracts quickly while the inside remains hot; this difference opens fine cracks in the surface. Starch leaks from cracked grains into the water, making the pilaf cloudy and causing it to break apart more easily as it cooks. The same thing happens with toasted bulgur. Cracked grains also absorb more water as they cook, throwing off the pilaf’s proportions.
Hot water solves both problems at once. When water is added boiling or near boiling, the pot stays hot; boiling barely pauses, and all the grains begin to swell at the same time. That is why, in an experienced kitchen, the water for pilaf is heated in a separate pot and kept ready while the rice is being toasted. If you are using stock, heat it the same way. If you do not want to use a separate pot to heat the water, you can use an electric kettle instead.
The way you add the water matters too. Pour all the water into the pot in one pour, along the side; pouring it over the rice tosses the grains around and disrupts the arrangement created by toasting. After adding the water, stir once, level the surface, and cover the pot. After that, do not stir the pilaf at all. Add salt with the water, since it will not distribute evenly if added later. After covering the pot, keep the heat at medium until boiling begins, then reduce it to low. Holding a spoon against the side of the pot as you pour softens the flow and keeps the grains from being tossed around.
The same rule applies halfway through cooking. If the water has been absorbed too soon and the grains are still firm, the water added to the pot should still be hot; sprinkle in a few spoonfuls, cover the pot, and let it cook over low heat. At this stage, cold water harms the pilaf twice as much, because partially cooked grains are more sensitive to a drop in temperature. After turning off the heat, do not add any water. The only thing to do after turning off the heat is to let the pilaf rest; add nothing to the pot. Do not lift the lid while it rests either; each time you open it, some of the steam escapes.
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