Dry toasting drives moisture off a grain’s surface and changes the starch there with heat; the new compounds that form give toasted grains their familiar nutty aroma. The process also firms the grain’s surface somewhat, so it breaks apart less while cooking. Toast the grain in a dry pan over medium heat, stirring or turning it constantly. As soon as the color begins to darken, remove it from the pan.
Dry toasting simply means heating grain in a pan without oil, but the result is significant. The heat first drives off surface moisture; once the surface dries, the temperature rises quickly and the starch and protein on the outside of the grain begin to change. Hundreds of new aroma compounds form as a result. This is where toasted grains get their nutty aroma, which raw grains do not have at all. That is why the same grain works like two different ingredients when toasted and untoasted. Toasting is therefore not a decorative step but a decision that directly affects the flavor of a recipe.
The second effect is on texture. Toasting firms the grain’s surface somewhat; water enters more gradually, and the grain breaks apart less as it cooks. This is why toasted buckwheat holds its shape noticeably better than untoasted buckwheat. For the same reason, toasted grains sometimes absorb a little less water; account for this difference the first time you try a recipe. The difference is especially noticeable in salads, where each grain is expected to remain separate.
The process is simple but requires attention. Spread the grain in a single layer in a dry pan without oil, set the heat to medium, and keep turning the grains or shaking the pan. After a few minutes, the aroma becomes noticeable and the color darkens slightly. Stop at that exact point. Do not leave the grain in the pan; immediately transfer it to a cool plate, because the pan’s residual heat will keep toasting it. Heat the pan before adding the grain; toasting that starts in a cold pan will be uneven. Prepare only as much grain as fits in a single pan at a time; grains arranged in two layers will not toast evenly.
The margin before burning is narrow, and there is no way to reverse it. Grain that turns dark brown develops a bitter taste that cannot be masked by washing, cooking, or seasoning. Do not toast grains of different sizes together in the same pan, because the smaller ones will burn before the larger ones release their aroma. Choose a pan with a thick bottom; in a thin pan, heat concentrates in spots and some grains brown too early. Do not try to pick out the burnt grains; their bitter taste will have spread through the entire batch in the pan.
This method does not suit every grain, but it works well for many. Buckwheat, quinoa, millet, oats, and sesame benefit noticeably from dry toasting. Rice and bulgur are usually toasted in oil because the goal there is not just aroma but coating the grain with oil. Do not store toasted grains for long; their aroma fades within a few days, so toast them on the day you plan to use them. Once the toasted grains have cooled, put them in a jar; warm grains will sweat inside the jar. Label the jar with the date too, because freshness cannot be judged by appearance.
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