Turkish-style white cheese stored in brine holds a lot of water within its texture. When heat makes the protein network contract, that water is released. In borek and savory pastries, it seeps into the dough, wets the bottom, and separates the layers. The solution is to drain the cheese before using it, pat it dry with paper towels, and, if needed, mix it with a binding ingredient.
Turkish-style white cheese is a cheese that finishes aging in brine. The brine both preserves the cheese and determines its flavor, but it also leaves a noticeable amount of water inside it. This water is held within the cheese’s texture and is not visible from the outside. When you squeeze the cheese by hand, the liquid running between your fingers shows how much water it contains. That is why even two packages of the same brand can hold different amounts of water. How long the cheese has been in brine directly affects this difference. If you know you will be making borek, you can put the cheese in a strainer a day in advance.
Heat disrupts this balance. In the oven, the cheese’s protein network contracts and pushes out the water it held; some of the water also turns to steam. In borek, the steam gets between the pastry sheets, wets the bottom, and separates the layers. In savory pastries, the filling runs out. The result looks like a problem with the dough, when the cheese is actually the source. The same problem occurs in pizza and baked pasta, where the cause is also water in the cheese. To keep the bottom of borek from getting wet, you can also sprinkle a thin layer of semolina over the baking sheet.
The first measure is draining. Take the cheese out of the brine, place it in a strainer, and leave it in the refrigerator for a while; put a bowl underneath to see how much water drains out. Then spread the cheese on paper towels and gently press the top to dry it as well. These two steps take a few minutes and make a direct difference in borek. Drain very wet cheese for longer. If the cheese crumbles while draining, it releases more water, so leave it in large pieces.
The second measure is using a binder. Mix in 1 egg, 1 spoonful of semolina, or breadcrumbs; the binder holds the remaining moisture so it does not run out during baking. Semolina absorbs water in the oven and firms up the filling. Use moisture-releasing greens such as parsley in moderation, and do not add them wet; dry them thoroughly after washing. If using semolina, keep the amount small; too much dries out the filling and overpowers its flavor. When using the egg, beat it in a separate bowl first, then mix it into the cheese.
Adjust the salt at the same stage. If the cheese is too salty, cut it into slices and soak them in fresh water for a while, changing the water 1 or 2 times. This process also adds water to the cheese, so it must then be drained thoroughly and dried. Choosing a less salty, drier cheese in the first place shortens all these steps. You can also gently press the cheese when buying it to see how much water it releases.