When cookie dough rests in the refrigerator, 2 things happen: the fat firms up, so the dough spreads more slowly in the oven; at the same time, the flour fully absorbs the liquid and the flavor deepens. A half-hour rest noticeably reduces spreading, while an overnight rest also affects flavor and color. This step makes the biggest difference in doughs with a high butter content.
In cookie dough, fat is soft at room temperature; as soon as the dough goes into the oven, the fat melts and the dough flows outward. In chilled dough, the fat has solidified and takes time to melt. During that delay, the dough’s outer surface sets and holds its shape. The result is a thicker cookie with neater edges. This step can be intentionally skipped in recipes where spreading is desired. Arrange the dough portions on the baking sheet with space between them; chilled dough spreads less, but it still spreads, and pieces placed too close together will stick to each other.
The second effect has to do with moisture. When the dough is mixed, the flour has not yet absorbed all the liquid; while it rests, the flour and sugar take up the liquid and the dough develops a more cohesive texture. Dry spots disappear. During the same time, the dough’s color darkens slightly and it browns more evenly in the oven. This effect begins within a few hours and becomes clearly noticeable after an overnight rest. For the same reason, the flour is not overworked when mixing the dough: the moisture will distribute during the rest, while prolonged mixing makes cookies tough.
The practical range is broad. 30 minutes is often enough to reduce spreading. Two hours gives a more reliable result. Resting overnight, or around twelve hours, also affects flavor and color, and many recipes recommend it. After 24 hours, the benefit diminishes and the dough begins to dry out. Always wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap, or its surface will dry and crack. The longer it rests, the firmer it becomes, so dough that will rest for more than one night should be left a little softer to begin with.
The dough can be shaped before resting or gathered into a mass and chilled. The most practical method is to roll it into a log, wrap it in plastic wrap, and chill it; then it can be sliced as soon as it comes out. Cut cookies can also rest on the baking sheet. Very firm dough should not be rolled out right away; let it sit on the counter for a few minutes. If you try to roll it immediately, it will crack and the edges will break. When wrapping a log, make sure no air pockets remain inside; a log with gaps will break at the edges when sliced and lose its round shape.
This step is most useful for cookies with a high butter content. The same approach is used for tart and pie dough; in those, the gluten also relaxes, so the dough does not spring back when rolled out. Doughs made with liquid oil benefit less. Dough can also be stored in the freezer; cookies frozen after slicing are baked without thawing, and the baking time is extended by only a few minutes. Do not wet the knife when slicing dough straight from the freezer; a sharp, dry knife makes a clean cut, while a wet knife smears the surface.
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