Steep the saffron
2 minCrumble the saffron into the lukewarm milk and let it steep until the milk turns deep yellow.
Aamras is a thick, uncooked mango dessert served during mango season in Gujarat and Maharashtra. Ripe mango flesh is mashed with cardamom and saffron and served cold. It is not a drink: it comes with hot, puffed whole-wheat puri, an Indian fried bread that is torn and dipped into the aamras. The quality depends on ripe mangoes; sugar is added only to make up for any missing sweetness.
Crumble the saffron into the lukewarm milk and let it steep until the milk turns deep yellow.
A ripe mango should yield slightly when pressed with a finger and smell fragrant near the stem. Peel the mangoes and scrape the flesh from around the pits. Blend the flesh with the sugar, cardamom, and saffron milk until smooth. Aamras should be a thick puree that flows slowly from a spoon; if it is too thick, add the cold milk a little at a time. Refrigerate until chilled.
Rub the flour with the salt and 1 tablespoon oil. Gradually add the lukewarm water and knead into a firm, smooth dough. Puri dough is firmer than bread dough; soft dough absorbs oil while frying. Cover and let the dough rest.
Divide the dough into 12 equal portions. On an oiled counter, roll each into a 10 cm circle of even thickness. Do not dust with flour; it burns in the hot oil and darkens it. Arrange the rolled puris so they do not touch.
Heat the frying oil in a deep skillet to 170–180°C / 340–355°F; a small piece of dough should rise to the surface immediately. Add one puri and gently press it with the back of a slotted spoon. When it puffs like a balloon, turn it and fry the other side until golden. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and fry the remaining puris the same way.
Divide the cold aamras among bowls and serve the hot puris alongside. Tear off pieces of puri and dip them into the aamras.
Make aamras only with fully ripe mangoes whose stems smell fragrant, and keep it chilled until serving. Cover and rest the puri dough before rolling it, or it will shrink back.
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