Belboula — Moroccan Barley and Cilantro Soup

Separate the thick stems of the cilantro and parsley from the leaves. Finely chop the stems and place them in one bowl, and put the leaves in another. The stems can withstand long cooking and give the soup an earthy depth; the leaves will darken and lose their aroma if cooked for too long.

Finely chop the onion and celery and soften them in olive oil over medium heat for 7 minutes. Sprinkle in the turmeric, ginger, paprika, and black pepper and stir for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, until its color deepens.

Grate the tomatoes into the pot and cook until their liquid evaporates and the oil separates. This separation shows that the tomatoes’ raw acidity has cooked off; if you add water before then, the soup will remain sour.

Add the water, drained barley, chopped herb stems, and salt. Once it boils, reduce the heat and cook until the barley is completely tender and the soup coats the back of a spoon. It tends to stick to the bottom, so stir from the bottom with a wooden spoon every 10 minutes.

Add the reserved cilantro and parsley leaves, boil for 2 more minutes, then remove from the heat. If the soup has thickened too much, thin it with boiling water; belboula should pour easily rather than have a porridge-like consistency. Ladle into bowls, drizzle with olive oil, and serve lemon wedges on the side.