These fish cakes are a home-style dish for fall, when bonito is plentiful and affordable. Finely chop the raw fillets by hand, then mix them with soaked and squeezed bread, onion, and plenty of fresh herbs. A food processor turns the fish into a paste and makes the cakes rubbery; hand-chopping preserves the texture of the fish and keeps the cakes tender.
Spread the fillets on a cutting board and run your fingertips over them to find any remaining bones; remove them with tweezers. Cut away and discard the dark red bloodline, which can give the cakes a strong smell.
Cut the fillet into thin strips, then small cubes. Run a knife over them several times until finely chopped, but do not turn the fish into a paste; the fibers should still be visible.
Soak the bread and squeeze it dry in your palm. Grate the onion and squeeze out its liquid, finely chop the herbs, and crush the garlic. Combine everything with the fish, egg, salt, and spices. Mix for 3–4 minutes, until the mixture holds together.
Take 45 g portions of the mixture and shape them into flat cakes 1.5 cm thick. Dredge them in flour and shake off the excess.
Add enough oil to a skillet to reach 1 cm deep and heat it over medium heat. Fry the fish cakes in batches for 3 minutes per side, until the crust is golden. They are done when the center reaches 63°C / 145°F; cooking them longer will dry them out. Serve hot with lemon.
Chill the mixture for 30 minutes before shaping; without chilling, the fish mixture stays soft and spreads in the pan.
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