Cà Ri Gà — Vietnamese Chicken Curry with Sweet Potato and Coconut Milk

Cut the sweet potato into 3 cm cubes. Fry in half the oil for 6 minutes, until the outside is browned, then transfer to a plate. This quick fry seals the surface; sweet potatoes added directly to the sauce will fall apart and turn the curry into a purée.

Pat the marinated chicken lightly with paper towels and brown it in batches in the remaining oil, turning to brown every side. Do not crowd the pot; crowded chicken will steam in its own juices instead of browning, leaving the curry pale.

Add the chopped onion and soften it for 4 minutes. Add the crushed lemongrass stalks and the remaining curry powder from the marinade, then stir for 1 minute. Dry spices bloom in oil and release their aroma; added directly to water, they can taste dusty.

Add the water, bay leaf, fish sauce, and sugar and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 22 minutes. Add the carrot during the last 12 minutes. Do not add the coconut milk yet; a long boil can cause it to split and leave beads of oil on the surface.

Add the coconut milk and fried sweet potatoes and keep the curry just below a simmer for 12 minutes; do not let it boil. The edges of the sweet potatoes should soften and thicken the sauce while the cubes remain intact. Taste and balance with fish sauce and sugar.

Insert a meat thermometer into the center of the thickest piece without touching the bone; the internal temperature should be 74°C / 165°F. Do not remove the chicken from the heat before it reaches this temperature. Remove the lemongrass stalks and bay leaf, then sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with a baguette for dipping, as is customary in Vietnam.