Conchas — Mexican Shell-Shaped Sweet Bread

Mix the flour, remaining granulated sugar and salt in a bowl; do not pour the salt directly onto the yeast. Add the eggs, vanilla and yeast mixture, and mix until combined. Knead on the counter until the dough becomes less sticky and stretchy. It will still stick to your hands at this stage, so do not rush to add more flour.

Divide the softened butter into three portions. Add them one at a time, waiting until each portion is fully incorporated before adding the next. The dough may look as if it is falling apart at first, but kneading will bring it together into a glossy, silky dough. Stretch a piece between both hands; if it becomes thin enough to let light through without tearing, the gluten is developed.

Knead the powdered sugar, flour, softened butter and vanilla together into a paste with the texture of play dough. Divide it in half and knead the cocoa into one half to make white and brown toppings. Divide each half into six pieces and roll them into balls.

Punch down the risen dough and divide it into 12 equal pieces, about 80 g each. Roll each piece in a circular motion under your palm on the counter to form a taut, smooth ball. Arrange them on two parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving at least 5 cm between them.

Roll the topping pieces between two sheets of parchment into thin circles 10 cm in diameter. Cover each dough ball with a circle, letting the edges hang down. Use the tip of a sharp knife or a concha cutter to score shell lines in the topping. Cut through the topping, but not into the dough underneath. Leave in a warm place for the second proof.

Preheat the oven to 180°C / 355°F and bake the sheets on the middle rack. As the conchas rise, the topping will separate along the scored lines and open up. The bottoms should be golden, while the topping should stay pale and matte rather than browning too much. Transfer to a wire rack to cool and eat the same day.