This Hakkari specialty, doğrama (“chopped”), is just what its name suggests: day-old bread, onion, and herbs are chopped and topped with cold ayran, a yogurt drink. Nothing is cooked, so it is eaten as a summer lunch. The bread must be stale; fresh bread falls apart in the ayran and turns mushy.
First cut the day-old bread into slices 1.5 cm thick, then cut the slices into equal-size cubes. Keep the crusts; they hold the ayran best.
Thinly slice the onion into half-moons. Rub it with half the salt between your palms and let it stand for 5 minutes. This mellows its sharpness; unrubbed onion can taste harsh in a cold soup.
Coarsely chop the parsley and mint. Do not mince the herbs too finely; visible leaf pieces should remain in the soup.
Thin the ayran with cold water, add the remaining salt, and whisk. It should be slightly thinner than drinkable ayran.
Combine the bread, rubbed onion, and herbs in a large bowl. Five minutes before serving, pour the ice-cold ayran over the top, turn the mixture once, and serve immediately.
Pour the ayran over the bread 5 minutes before serving and keep the bowls thoroughly chilled. If added too early, the bread will absorb all the ayran, leaving no liquid in the bowl and turning the soup into a dry salad.
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