Gaeng Som — Thai Tamarind and Chili Fish Curry

Remove the stems from the dried chilies, split them lengthwise and shake out the seeds; leaving the seeds in will make the soup too hot to eat. Soak the chilies in hot water until soft, then squeeze out the excess water. Save the soaking water to thin the paste if it becomes too thick.

Pound the softened dried chilies, bird’s eye chili, shallots, garlic, turmeric and salt in a mortar until the fibers break down and the paste is smooth. Add the shrimp paste last and pound for 1 more minute. If using a food processor, you may need to add some of the chili-soaking water.

Bring 1 liter of water to a boil in a pot. Dissolve the curry paste in a ladleful of hot water, then add it to the pot. Simmer for 8 minutes, until the soup turns orange and the raw spice aroma disappears. Do not skip this step, or the soup will taste of raw garlic.

Add the daikon radish and green beans first and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower and cook for 4 minutes. Each vegetable should still offer a little resistance when pierced with a fork; the vegetables in gaeng som stay firm, while soft vegetables cloud the broth.

Lower the heat until the soup is no longer boiling. Gently add the fish in 4 cm pieces and cook without stirring for 4 minutes. It is ready when the flesh flakes away from the bones or center of the piece. Add the shredded cabbage for the last 1 minute, remove the pot from the heat and serve with hot rice.