Gurnard has a large, bony head relative to its body; it gives the soup its gelatinous texture. Unlike scorpionfish soup, this version is thickened with a flour roux and flavored with celery. Strain the stock twice: first through cheesecloth, then after letting it settle, skim off the clear liquid from the top.
Cut off the fins with kitchen shears and remove the gills and entrails. Separate the head from the body, but keep it; the bones and cartilage in the head give the soup its body. Cut the body into three pieces.
Put the fish, including the head, in a pot with 2 liters cold water, the coarsely chopped celery, carrot, onion, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
Strain the stock through cheesecloth and let it settle, then take the clear liquid from the top. Pick the meat from the body pieces, removing any bones, and set it aside.
Melt the butter in a pot and add the flour. Cook over low heat for 4 minutes, stirring without letting it brown. Gradually whisk in the strained fish stock, one ladle at a time, incorporating each addition fully before adding the next. Add the salt and simmer for 6 minutes.
Add the picked fish to the soup. Whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice, then slowly whisk in two ladles of hot soup to warm them. Turn off the heat and pour the egg mixture into the soup while stirring.
Let the strained stock stand for 10 minutes, then ladle off the clear liquid on top and leave the sediment behind; this second separation keeps the soup clear.
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