Meatballs and kebabs
Keme is a desert truffle gathered from beneath the soil of the Antep and Kilis plains after spring rains, and it is available at markets for only a few weeks. For this kebab, lamb and coarsely chopped desert truffle are threaded onto the same skewer. Fat-tail lamb fat melts between them and soaks into the spongy truffle. Its flavor is mild and earthy, so the skewers are seasoned lightly.
Scrub the desert truffles under cold water with a stiff brush to remove the sand. Scrape off the thin outer skin with a knife, and rinse away any sand trapped in cracks. Cut the truffles into 3 cm chunks.
Grate the onion, squeeze it through cheesecloth, and mix the juice with the olive oil, black pepper, red pepper flakes, and salt. Coat the lamb cubes in the marinade and refrigerate in a covered container.
Thread the lamb, desert truffle, and cubes of fat-tail lamb fat onto the skewers in alternating order. Place a piece of fat just above each truffle so it melts down over it. This makes 8 skewers.
Arrange the skewers 10 cm above the coals. Turn them every 3 minutes and cook for 12–14 minutes; grill the peppers as well. The kebabs are ready when the truffle edges are browned and glossy with fat and the center of the lamb is above 63°C / 145°F.
Cover the skewers with lavash to warm it, then use the bread to grip and slide off the lamb and truffles. Serve immediately with the grilled peppers.
Marinate the lamb in onion juice in the refrigerator for 2 hours, and chop the desert truffle just before threading it onto the skewers. Desert truffles are available only briefly in spring, so cook them on the day you buy them.
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