Start the broth
10 minPut the rib and shank pieces in a large pot, add 3 liters of cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. As it approaches a boil, skim off the gray foam that gathers on the surface; continue until no more foam appears.
Boil-up is a traditional Māori one-pot meal from New Zealand: bone-in meat simmers for hours with potatoes, kumara (sweet potato), and greens, then spoonfuls of dumpling dough cook on top with the lid on. This version uses beef ribs and beef shank in place of the cuts traditionally used. Watercress and Swiss chard stand in for New Zealand pūhā greens, reducing some of the bitterness while keeping the dish hearty.
Put the rib and shank pieces in a large pot, add 3 liters of cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. As it approaches a boil, skim off the gray foam that gathers on the surface; continue until no more foam appears.
Add the halved onion, bay leaves, and whole peppercorns. Lower the heat, leave the lid ajar, and simmer for 2 hours 20 minutes, keeping the surface barely moving. The ribs are ready when the meat pulls away from the bones easily with a fork. Remove the onion and bay leaves, and skim the fat from the surface.
Peel the potatoes and kumara and cut them into 4-centimeter pieces. Separate the Swiss chard stems from the leaves and chop the stems into 1-centimeter pieces; cut the leaves into wide strips. Rinse the watercress and discard the thick stem ends.
Add the salt, potatoes, and kumara to the pot and cook over medium heat with the lid slightly ajar for 15 minutes. Move on when a knife meets slight resistance in the center of a potato; the vegetables will finish cooking with the dumplings.
Mix the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the water and bring the dough together with a fork. It should be sticky and rough; do not knead it, or the dumplings will turn out tough.
Add the Swiss chard stems to the pot and cook for 2 minutes. Add the leaves and watercress, pressing them down into the liquid. Use a wet tablespoon to scoop walnut-size portions of dough and space them across the simmering surface. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 15 minutes without opening the lid. The dumplings should double in size and be dry and spongy inside when cut open. Divide the meat, vegetables, one or two dumplings, and broth among deep bowls.
After adding the dumplings, keep the lid closed for 15 minutes. Escaping steam can leave the tops uncooked and the centers doughy.
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