Stuffed Zucchini Leaves — Anatolian Bulgur Filling

Hold the leaves by their stems and wash both sides under running water, rubbing them with your palm; most of the hairs will come off. Cut the stem at the base of the leaf. Turn the leaf over and, with the knife held at an angle, cut out the thickening central vein in a narrow V shape, working from the base toward the tip.

Bring water to a boil in a wide pot and add a pinch of salt. Dip the leaves in batches and lift them out with a slotted spoon as soon as they turn bright green and soften in your hand, for about a half-minute. Spread the hot leaves in layers on a tray and do not put them in cold water; the cold shock makes them brittle.

Finely chop the onion, rub it with half the salt, and let it release its liquid. Grate the tomatoes. Mix the fine bulgur, onion, tomatoes, tomato paste, half the olive oil, mint, Turkish red pepper flakes, black pepper, and remaining salt; let stand for 10 minutes. The bulgur will absorb the tomato liquid and the filling will become easy to roll.

Lay a leaf with its veined side facing up and place a 5 ml measure of filling near the base. Fold both sides inward, then roll tightly from the base toward the tip without stretching the leaf; the bulgur will expand as it cooks, so a tightly stretched roll can open. Arrange the rolls in rows in a pot with no gaps between them.

Mix the remaining olive oil with the water and lemon juice, then pour over the rolls; the liquid should come one finger-width above them. Cover with an inverted plate and put on the lid. Once it boils, reduce the heat and cook for 40 minutes. Cut one roll to check: it is done when the bulgur has expanded to the center and the leaf separates easily with a fork. Remove from the heat and let rest with the lid on.