Upma | South Indian Savory Semolina with Mustard Seeds

Put the semolina in a dry skillet and toast it over medium-low heat, stirring constantly. Do not let it change color; toast only until it smells nutty and the grains flow freely instead of clumping. This is the step that keeps upma fluffy and separate; skip it and the result will be mushy. Transfer the toasted semolina to a plate and let it cool.

Heat the oil in a pot and add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop and crackle, add the urad dal, chana dal, and cashews. Stir for 1–2 minutes, until all three turn golden, then add the curry leaves—they will sizzle and curl. Keep the heat at medium so they do not burn.

Lower the heat. Hold a whisk in one hand and slowly stream the toasted semolina into the boiling water with the other, whisking constantly as you pour. The mixture will thicken right away. Cover and cook for 3 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. It is ready when you see small steam holes across the surface after uncovering.

Remove the pot from the heat, drizzle in the lemon juice, and fluff the upma with a fork; a spoon can crush the grains. Sprinkle with the chopped cilantro and let it rest, covered, for 2 minutes. Serve hot with coconut chutney on the side.