Meat stock is made by starting bones and meat in cold water and simmering gently for hours. Do not boil it: boiling disperses fat and protein particles into the water, and the stock will not become clear again. A rough ratio is 1 kg of bones to 2 liters of water. Beef bones take 6–8 hours; a chicken carcass takes 3–4 hours. Add salt at the end because the stock concentrates as water evaporates.
The bones you choose determine the stock’s flavor and body. Bones rich in connective tissue, such as joints, shanks, and neck bones, release the most gelatin; stock that sets into a gel as it cools is a sign that the right bones were used. For a darker, roasted flavor, roast the bones in the oven at 200°C / 390°F for 30–40 minutes before adding them to the pot. Skip this step for a light-colored, mild stock and add the bones directly to the water. Chicken carcasses, wings, and feet work well too. Ask the butcher to cut the bones into pieces; bones with visible marrow and cartilage at the cut surface work much faster than whole bones.
Start the bones in cold water and raise the heat slowly. Starting in hot water coagulates proteins on the surface all at once and makes the water cloudy from the beginning. As the water heats, gray foam collects on the surface; skim it off with a ladle, or the stock may become cloudy and slightly bitter. Once the foam stops forming, add the vegetables: onion, carrot, celery stalks, and a few parsley stems are enough. If added at the beginning, the vegetables can break down during the long simmer and cloud the stock again.
From here, the process takes patience. Keep the stock at a temperature where only an occasional bubble appears on the surface—about 85–95°C / 185–203°F—and leave the lid partly open. Beef and lamb bones take 6–8 hours, chicken takes 3–4 hours, and vegetable stock takes 45 minutes. Add hot water as the level drops; adding cold water lowers the pot temperature and sets the process back. Do not stir during this time, because stirring lifts particles from the bottom and clouds the stock. Add spices and bay leaves during the final 1 hour, since a longer simmer can make them taste bitter.
When the time is up, strain the stock first through a coarse colander and then through a fine-mesh strainer. Cooling is the most critical step for food safety: do not put the hot stock pot directly into the refrigerator. Divide the stock among wide, shallow containers and cool it within 2 hours; if needed, set the containers in a sink filled with ice water. Once chilled, lift off the solid layer of fat with a spoon and save it for another use. Stock keeps for 3–4 days in the refrigerator and for months in the freezer; freezing it in ice cube trays makes portioning easier.
Comments (2)
Seksen beş ile doksan beş derece bandını termometresiz nasıl tutturuyorsunuz? Bende ya kaynıyor ya sönüyor.
Kapağı yarım aralık bırakın ve tencerenin yalnız bir kenarından seyrek kabarcık çıkacak kadar kısın. Kabarcık patlama sesi duyuluyorsa sıcaklık yüksektir.
Soğuk suda başlatınca suyun berrak kaldığı doğru. Ben yine de başta bir taşım kaynatıp köpüğü alıyorum, sonra kısıyorum; bu kadarı bulandırmıyor.