If it is unglazed, soak the clay pot in water before using it; water absorbed into its pores slowly turns to steam in the oven and keeps the food moist. Clay cookware cannot withstand sudden temperature changes: put a cold pot in a cold oven and let it heat up with the oven, and do not set a hot pot on a wet counter. When used properly, it heats slowly and retains heat for a long time, so the food cools slowly at the table.
There are two types of clay cookware. Unglazed, porous clay absorbs water; soak this type in water for 15–30 minutes before use. As the water absorbed by the pot heats in the oven, it turns to steam and creates a moist environment inside; that is why meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot dry out less. Glazed clay cookware does not absorb water and does not need soaking; its advantage is not absorbed moisture but the slow, even way it releases heat.
Thermal shock is the weakest point of clay cookware. Clay transfers heat slowly, so while one side of the pot heats up, the other side remains cold, and the difference can cause cracking. That is why you should not put a cold clay pot into a preheated hot oven; place it in a cold oven and let it heat up with the oven. For the same reason, do not put the pot directly over a stovetop flame, under the broiler, or into the oven right after taking it out of the refrigerator. Set a pot taken out of the oven on a dry wooden trivet.
Plan the food around this gradual heating. Add the ingredients while the pot is cold; do not pour hot liquid into a cold pot all at once. Because clay cookware heats slowly, cooking takes longer than in a metal pot, and the temperature is usually kept somewhat lower. In a lidded clay pot, steam stays inside, the food cooks in its own juices, and the sauce reduces less; if you want the top to brown, remove the lid during the last half an hour. Watch the food in the oven after removing the lid. Do not fill the pot to the brim, which prevents boiling food from spilling over.
Care differs from that for ordinary cookware too. Do not wash unglazed clay cookware with detergent; the pores absorb it and release its smell into the next dish. A dishwasher is also unsuitable for unglazed clay cookware. Hot water, a brush, and baking soda if needed are enough. Put the pot away only after it is completely dry; a damp clay pot can develop mold and odors. Do not stack the lids; place a cloth between them. Before putting the pot away, check its inside and outside by hand. Dark color and oil marks that develop inside over time are not defects; the pot’s own surface settles in with use.
The main advantage of clay cookware is its gradual heating. It heats slowly, retains heat for a long time, and continues cooking the food for a while after it leaves the oven; for this reason, take the pot out a little early. Food served in the pot stays hot for a long time, and without a trivet it can burn the table. Set a thick trivet on the table ahead of time. Do not repair a cracked or broken clay pot; the crack grows each time it is heated, and food can leak through it and burn on the bottom of the oven.
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