Aegean-Style Sautéed Pickles

Place the pickles in a colander and rinse once under cold running water. Coarsely chop the cabbage on a cutting board and slice the cucumbers into rounds. Squeeze them handful by handful; if you do not press out the liquid until no drops fall, they will boil in the pan instead of browning.

Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet. Add the onion, sliced into thin half-moons, and sauté over medium heat until the edges are lightly browned.

Sprinkle in the red pepper flakes and sugar, and cook for 1 minute more. The sugar rounds out the acidity rather than removing it; taste and add another pinch if needed.