Baingan Bharta | Indian Fire-Roasted Eggplant Mash

Wash and dry the eggplants, leaving the stems on. Make four or five shallow cuts in each with a knife to let steam escape; otherwise, the eggplants may burst. Place them directly over a stovetop flame and turn with tongs until charred on all sides. A skewer should slide in without resistance; eggplant that is charred outside but still firm inside is not ready.

Place the eggplants in a covered container and let them rest for 5 minutes so their own steam loosens the skins. Peel them with your fingers and scrape off any remaining black bits with the tip of a knife; do not rinse with water. Mash with a fork, leaving some strands visible rather than turning the eggplant into a puree.

Heat the oil in a skillet, add the cumin seeds, and let them sizzle for 20 seconds. Add the finely chopped onion and cook over medium heat for 8 minutes, stirring, until the edges turn deep golden. Do not burn the onion; the bharta already gets its smoky flavor from the eggplant.

Add the finely chopped tomatoes and salt and cook over medium heat. The tomatoes will first release their juices; then the liquid will reduce and the mixture will thicken. It is ready when oil separates around the edges and rises to the surface. If you continue before this happens, the dish will taste of raw tomato.

Add the mashed eggplant and peas to the skillet and stir them into the masala. Cook uncovered over medium-low heat. It is ready when the liquid released by the eggplant has evaporated and the mixture gathers in the center of the skillet; a path drawn through it with a spoon should stay open. Stir in the garam masala and chopped cilantro at the end, then remove from the heat.