Döner is traditionally roasted on a vertical spit, but at home the same layered structure can be built in a loaf pan. Thinly pounded slices of meat are marinated with onion juice, yogurt, and milk, layered with lamb tail fat, pressed into the pan, and baked as a block. The block is then sliced thinly and browned in a hot skillet; that final step creates the crisp edges.
Partially freeze the meat, then slice it across the grain to 3–4 mm thick. Place the slices between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound them to 2–3 mm thick. Slice the lamb tail fat to the same thickness.
Grate the onion, squeeze it in cheesecloth, and use only the juice. Whisk the onion juice with the yogurt, milk, olive oil, salt, and spices until smooth.
Coat each slice of meat in the marinade and stack them in a covered container. Make sure both sides of every slice are coated.
Line a 25 cm loaf pan with parchment paper. Lay the meat slices flat in the pan, stacking them and adding slices of lamb tail fat every four layers. Press each layer down firmly with your palm. A tightly packed block with no air gaps will bake as one piece.
Cover the pan with foil and bake in an oven preheated to 180°C / 355°F for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 20 minutes more, until the top is browned. The center of the block must reach at least 71°C / 160°F on a thermometer.
Remove the rested block from the pan and slice it with a sharp knife into 2 mm sheets. Fry in batches in a hot cast-iron skillet for 2–3 minutes, until the liquid cooks off and the edges turn crisp. Wrap in lavash with tomatoes.
Firm the meat in the freezer for 45 minutes before slicing, marinate it in the refrigerator for 6–12 hours, and let the baked block rest for 15 minutes before slicing. A hot block will not cut into sheets and may fall apart.
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