Ganache is an emulsion made by pouring hot cream over chopped chocolate and letting it melt. The weight ratio of cream to chocolate determines its use: equal weights make a pourable coating, while twice as much chocolate makes a filling that can be sliced and shaped. Bring the cream just to a simmer rather than boiling it; boiling can cause the chocolate’s fat to separate and the ganache to split.
Chop the chocolate into lentil-sized pieces with a knife and place them in a wide, deep bowl. Large pieces will not melt from the heat of the cream and will remain hard in the ganache; do not add it in a block.
Heat the cream with the salt in a small saucepan until the first bubbles appear around the edges, then remove it from the heat immediately. Do not boil it; boiling evaporates water from the cream and raises its fat concentration, causing the ganache to separate rather than emulsify.
Pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate and let it stand without stirring for 2 minutes so the chocolate can melt from the heat. Then use a spatula to make small circles in the center, gradually working outward. The mixture will begin to turn glossy and uniform in color from the center out.
Once the ganache is a uniform color, add the butter and stir until melted; the butter adds shine and helps the ganache cut cleanly once firm. If it looks oily and separated, add one 15 ml measure of hot milk and whisk from the center to bring it back together; this usually works.
If using the ganache as a coating, let it cool for 20 minutes. If using it as a filling, chill it in the refrigerator for 2 hours until firm. These times are not included in the recipe duration.
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