Giresun-Style Rice-Stuffed Hazelnut Leaf Rolls

Cut the stems from the leaves and rub both sides clean under running water. Set aside any leaves with holes, insect damage, or dried edges; hazelnut leaves dry out at the edges, which can break when rolled. Thin the thick part of the central vein on the back by pressing it with the back of a knife, but do not cut through it or the leaf will split.

Bring water to a boil in a wide pot and add a pinch of salt. Blanch the leaves in groups of ten until their color deepens and the matte side turns glossy; because they are thicker than grape leaves, this takes a few minutes. Lift one leaf out with a slotted spoon and fold it in half: if it bends without breaking, drain them all; if it still crackles, leave it in the water a little longer.

Melt two-thirds of the butter in a pot. Cook the finely chopped onion without browning, until translucent and greatly reduced in volume. Add the rinsed and drained rice and stir until the grains glisten with oil. Add the mint, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and salt, then remove from the heat and let the filling cool until warm.

Place a leaf vein-side up and add one 5 ml measure of filling near the base. Fold both sides inward and roll loosely from the base toward the tip, about finger-thick; the rice doubles in volume as it cooks. Line the bottom of the pot with torn leaves and arrange the rolls in rows without gaps.

Melt the remaining butter and mix it with the water and lemon juice. Pour over the rolls; the liquid should cover them by about a finger’s width. Place an upside-down plate on top, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook for 45 minutes. Cut one roll open to check: it is ready when the rice is cooked through and the leaf is tender. Serve hot with yogurt.