Gougères are the savory, cheese-enriched version of choux pastry, traditionally served to guests in Burgundy. They rise from steam, not yeast: water in the dough turns to steam in the oven, inflating each puff and leaving a crust. That is why the oven door must stay closed for the first 20 minutes; escaping steam can make the gougères collapse.
Use the finest holes on your grater; coarsely grated cheese can leave gaps as it melts and cause the puffs to collapse. Set aside ninety g for the dough and 30 g for topping. Start preheating the oven to 200°C / 390°F.
Bring the water, milk, butter, and salt to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Cut the butter into cubes so it melts before the liquid boils. As soon as the mixture starts bubbling, move to the next step without taking the pan off the heat.
Add all the flour at once and stir quickly with a wooden spoon; the dough will come together immediately and pull away from the sides of the pan. Lower the heat and keep stirring for 2–3 minutes, until a thin white film forms on the bottom. This dries the dough, helping the puffs rise more in the oven.
Transfer the dough to a large bowl and stir as it cools until it is comfortable to touch. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until each is fully absorbed before adding the next. After the first egg, the dough may look separated; it will come together as you keep mixing. The dough is ready when it hangs from a lifted spoon in a heavy V shape without breaking off.
Mix 90 g of the cheese, the nutmeg, and black pepper into the dough. Using a piping bag with a plain tip, pipe walnut-sized mounds onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving 4 cm between them. Flatten the tips with a wet finger so they do not burn. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.
Bake at 200°C / 390°F for 15 minutes, then lower the oven to 180°C / 355°F and bake for another 15 minutes. Do not open the door during the first 20 minutes. The gougères should be deep golden and feel light when lifted; if they feel heavy, the centers are still wet, so bake for 5 more minutes.
Do not add the eggs while the dough is hot; they may cook and turn lumpy before the dough cools to hand-warm. Add the last egg gradually, checking the dough’s consistency as you go. Allergens: contains wheat (gluten), egg, and milk and dairy products.
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