Grechka Po-Kupecheski (Merchant-Style Buckwheat with Beef and Carrots)

Spread the buckwheat on a tray and pick out any dark grains or stones. Rinse it twice in cold water and drain. In a wide, dry skillet over medium heat, toast for 4–5 minutes, stirring, until the surface moisture evaporates and the grains smell nutty. Toasting helps keep them separate as they cook.

Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot and brown the beef in two batches for 4–5 minutes, until dark brown on all sides. If the pot is crowded, the meat will release liquid and steam instead of browning.

Add the half-moon-sliced onion and coarsely grated carrot to the beef. Cook for 7 minutes, stirring, until the onion softens and the carrot colors the oil. Add the tomato paste and crushed garlic; cook for 2 more minutes, until the raw smell of the paste is gone.

Add 250 ml of hot water and the bay leaf. Cover and cook over low heat for 40–45 minutes. The meat is ready when it separates easily with a fork. If all the liquid evaporates, add a few spoonfuls of hot water.

Spread the buckwheat in an even layer over the meat and sprinkle with salt. Slowly pour in 600 ml of boiling water over the back of a spoon; the water should stand 1 cm above the buckwheat. Once it boils, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, cover tightly, and cook without stirring for 20 minutes. It is ready when small steam holes appear on the surface and no water is visible.

Top the steamed buckwheat with the butter and black pepper. Use a fork to fluff and fold it together with the meat underneath. Remove the bay leaf and serve hot; dill pickles make a good accompaniment.