Grilled Lamb Testicles with Thyme and Lemon

Use the tip of a sharp knife to score the tight, whitish membrane lengthwise on each piece, without cutting deeply. Grip the membrane at the edge of the cut and peel it away in one piece with your fingers; on a fresh piece it should come off at once. If it is difficult to remove, soak the piece in ice water for 5 minutes; the cold firms the membrane and makes it easier to separate.

Rinse the peeled pieces several times in cold water mixed with apple cider vinegar, then rinse under running water. Dry them thoroughly with paper towels; a wet surface steams over the coals, so the outside will not sear before the inside cooks.

Cut the pieces in half lengthwise, or into quarters if they are very large. Coat them with olive oil, thyme, and black pepper, then add the salt just before grilling. Salt added too early draws moisture to the surface and delays browning.

Grill 10 cm above glowing coals with no active flame and a light layer of ash. Place them cut-side down first and turn when golden grill marks appear. Grill for 3 minutes per side. A slight spring when pressed with your finger means the center is still creamy; if it feels firm, it has cooked too long.

Massage the thinly sliced onion with a pinch of salt and squeeze out its liquid. Toss it with sumac and chopped parsley. Transfer the grilled pieces to a plate, squeeze lemon over them, and serve hot with the onion salad.