Kenchinjiru is a meat-free root vegetable soup from Japanese Buddhist temple cuisine (shōjin ryōri). Its distinctive feature is sautéing the vegetables in sesame oil before adding water; this gives the soup a nutty aroma and helps the vegetables hold their shape as they cook. The tofu is broken by hand rather than cut with a knife—the irregular surfaces hold the soup better.
Break the drained tofu into walnut-size pieces by hand without using a knife. The irregular edges hold the soup better; neatly cut cubes can slide around in the bowl. Set the pieces on a paper towel.
Cut the daikon and carrot into half-moons, and the celery root and taro into irregular 2 cm pieces. Taro can make your hands itch when peeled; keep your hands dry or wear gloves. Remove the stems from the shiitake mushrooms and slice the caps.
Heat the sesame oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the daikon and carrot first, then add the celery root and taro 3 minutes later and stir. Continue until the edges of the vegetables turn translucent and glisten with oil; they do not need to brown. Sesame oil turns bitter over high heat, so keep the heat at medium.
Add the hand-broken tofu and sliced shiitake to the pot. Cook for just 2–3 minutes, turning gently until the tofu edges are lightly golden. Use the edge of a spatula as you stir so the tofu does not break apart. This brief sauté gives the tofu a surface that will hold together in the soup.
Pour in the kombu broth and reduce the heat just before it comes to a boil; the soup should not bounce as it simmers, and the surface should only quiver. Skim off any foam with a ladle. Cook until a skewer slides into the taro without resistance.
Add the soy sauce and salt, then cook for 2 more minutes and taste. Kenchinjiru should not taste salty; the vegetables’ sweetness should come through. If it seems underseasoned, add 1 g of salt and taste again. Divide among bowls and sprinkle with thinly sliced scallions.
Place the tofu on a plate, cover it with another plate, and drain it under a weight for 30 minutes before using. Tofu that has not been drained can break apart in the soup and dilute the broth.
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