Khoresh Karafs — Persian Celery, Herb and Lamb Stew

Peel the tough strings from the celery stalks and cut them into 3 cm pieces. Sauté them in one-third of the oil over medium heat for 5 minutes, until the edges are lightly colored, then transfer to a plate. This preliminary sauté helps the celery hold its shape in the stew.

Finely chop the parsley and mint. Add one-third of the oil to the same pan and cook the herbs over low heat for 6–7 minutes, until dark green but not browned. They will shrink to one-quarter of their volume and smell sweeter; if used raw, they will make the stew taste grassy.

Pat the lamb dry, add it to the pot, and turn until browned on all sides. Pour in the water and add the salt. Pierce the dried limes in three or four places with a skewer and add them to the pot. Once the liquid boils, reduce the heat to the lowest setting and simmer until the meat is tender. Keep at least two 200 ml measures of liquid in the pot.

Add the sautéed herbs and celery to the pot and cook over low heat. The celery should offer slight resistance when pierced with a fork but should not fall apart. The stew is ready when the sauce thickens and a green layer of oil appears on the surface.

Add the lemon juice just before removing the pot from the heat and taste the stew; khoresh karafs should be distinctly tart. If needed, add another 15 ml. Remove the dried limes or leave them in the serving dish so diners can crush them for more tartness. Serve with saffron rice.