Kkakdugi — Korean Cubed Radish Kimchi

Peel the radish thinly and cut it into 2.5 cm cubes. Smaller cubes release all their liquid and become limp; larger cubes may not ferment through to the center. Toss the cubes with the salt and sugar in a large bowl.

Whisk the rice flour into 200 ml of cold water until smooth, then place it over the heat. Bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Once it thickens, add the sugar and cook for 1 more minute. Let it cool completely; hot slurry will dull the color of the gochugaru.

Stir the gochugaru into the cooled slurry and let it stand for 10 minutes; the flakes will open up and turn deep red. Mix in the grated garlic, ginger, and onion, then stir in the fish sauce. The paste should be about as thick as yogurt.

Put the salted radish in a strainer, but do not rinse it or discard the liquid. The liquid is salty, sweet, and full of radish flavor; it will be added to the paste. Bite into a cube: it should be flexible on the outside but still crunchy in the center.

Put on gloves and mix the radish cubes with the seasoning paste by hand until every cube is coated. Add half a 200 ml measure of the radish liquid. Fold in the coarsely chopped scallions last, turning the mixture only 2 or 3 times; too much mixing will crush the scallions and make them turn black in the jar.

Press the mixture firmly into a jar, leaving a four-finger-width gap at the top; the kimchi will foam and overflow as it ferments. Smooth the surface with your hand so the seasoning paste covers the radish cubes; radish exposed to air can mold. Close the lid loosely and set the jar on a plate.