Labada Sarmasi | Black Sea-Style Stuffed Dock Leaves with Ground Beef

Cut off the stems and wash the leaves, changing the water several times; they grow in damp soil and carry sand. Turn each leaf over and use a knife to cut out the central vein in a narrow V, up to where it approaches the tip. Split large leaves in two along the opening left by the vein, and leave small leaves whole.

Bring water to a boil in a wide pot and add a pinch of salt. Dip the leaves in batches of five and cook until they darken and soften in your hand, then lift them out with a slotted spoon. Spread the hot leaves on a tray without overlapping them; piled-up hot leaves stick together and tear when separated.

Finely chop the onion. Combine the ground beef, rinsed and drained rice, onion, tomato paste, Turkish red pepper flakes, black pepper, and salt in a bowl, and knead by hand for 5 minutes. The filling is ready when it holds together in your palm without crumbling.

Lay a leaf with its veined side facing up and place a tablespoon (15 ml) of filling near the base. Fold in both sides and roll loosely from the base toward the tip; the rice will expand as it cooks, so a tightly rolled leaf can open. Line the bottom of the pot with torn leaves, then arrange the rolls in rows with the seams facing down.

Melt the butter, mix it with the water, and pour it over the rolls; the liquid should come one finger-width above them. Cover with an inverted plate and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook for 45 minutes. Cut one roll to check that the rice is cooked through to the center. Whisk the yogurt with the crushed garlic and serve alongside the hot rolls.