Masala Papad (Indian-Style Spiced Lentil Wafers)

Finely dice the yellow onion, tomato, and green pepper, aiming for pieces about the size of a grain of rice. Cut out and discard the watery, seedy center of the tomato; the less liquid in the topping, the longer the wafer stays crisp. Chop the fresh cilantro and add it, then mix in the lemon juice and chaat masala. Set the bowl aside.

Set a burner to medium heat. Hold a lentil wafer with tongs about 10 cm above the flame, turning it continuously so no spots blacken. It will blister, lighten in color, and curl at the edges within seconds. About 20 seconds per side is enough. If you do not have a gas burner, press it against a dry skillet to get the same result.

Place a cooked wafer on a serving plate and spread the topping in a single layer from the center toward the edges. Leave the liquid at the bottom of the bowl and use only the solid pieces. Leave a two-finger-width border around the edge for people to hold.

Use a sharp knife or pizza cutter to cut each wafer into four triangles and take it straight to the table. Cutting is the only way to divide the crisp wafer without breaking it; breaking it by hand spills the topping. Serve with cold ayran (a yogurt drink) or plain yogurt.