This Djerba Island pilaf is never boiled: raw rice is mixed with chopped vegetables, herbs, and spices, then steamed in the top of a couscous steamer. Since it is not cooked in water, the grains neither swell nor stick together; each grain carries its own coating of herbs and spices. In Tunisia, it is a festive dish served at large gatherings, and is served warm.
Cut the zucchini, carrot, potato, and onion into tiny 5 mm dice. Larger pieces of vegetables take longer to steam than the rice and will remain raw in the pilaf. Remove the thick stems from the herbs and finely chop them all.
In a large bowl, combine the drained rice with the vegetables, herbs, olive oil, tomato paste, tabil, turmeric, paprika, salt, and black pepper. Toss by hand without crushing the grains; each grain should be coated in oil, or the rice may stick together as it steams.
Add water to the bottom of a couscous steamer or steamer and bring it to a boil. Loosely pile the rice mixture in the upper basket; do not press it down, or steam will not be able to circulate through it. Cover and steam for 35 minutes. You should see steam coming through the center, not just around the edges of the perforated tray.
Transfer the mixture to a large tray, fluff it with a fork, and break up any clumps. Wet your hand with the warm salted water and sprinkle half of a 200 ml measure over the rice. Taste a grain: the outside should be soft while the center remains firm. If it is already soft throughout, shorten the second steaming by 10 minutes.
Return the mixture to the upper basket and steam for 25 minutes more. At the end, the grains should be fully cooked but separate. The zucchini and carrot cubes should hold their shape; if they break down, cut them into 1 cm pieces next time.
Transfer the pilaf to a tray, fluff it with a fork, and leave it uncovered for 5 minutes so excess steam can escape. Serve warm; serving it very hot can make it seem moist. Set out a small bowl of harissa and lemon wedges so diners can add heat and acidity to taste.
After rinsing the rice, soak it in cold water for 30 minutes and drain it thoroughly. Rice that has not been soaked will remain raw in the center even after 1 hour of steaming, while overly wet rice will clump.
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