Sea Snail Sauté — Black Sea–Style Garlic Butter Sauté

Place the snails in a large bowl of cold water. Scrub the shells with a brush to remove algae and sand. Touch the flesh at the shell opening with the tip of a fork; a live snail will retract. Discard any that do not respond, remain extended, or have a cracked shell.

Bring plenty of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the rock salt and bay leaf, then add the snails. Once the water returns to a full boil, cook for 10 minutes. The meat will be easier to remove from the shells; boiling it longer will make it rubbery.

Drain the snails. Once they are cool enough to handle, insert a fork into the shell opening and twist clockwise to pull out the meat in one piece. Pinch off and discard the hard, hornlike operculum at the end of the meat. With a knife, cut away the dark greenish digestive gland at the curled end; it causes bitterness.

Rinse the cleaned meat in cold water and pat it dry with paper towels. Slice each piece 4 millimeters thick, across the grain. Cutting across the grain shortens the fibers as they cook and keeps the meat tender.

Melt the butter in a large skillet until foamy. Add the thinly sliced garlic and cook over low heat for 90 seconds, stirring. As soon as the garlic turns cream-colored, raise the heat, add the snail slices, and sauté for no more than 3 minutes. The sauté is ready when the edges curl and the surfaces look glossy.

Turn off the heat. Season with salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes, then drizzle with lemon juice. Toss with chopped parsley and serve hot.