Şiveydiz: Gaziantep-Style Lamb and Chickpea Stew with Fresh Garlic

Melt the butter in a wide pot. Spread the lamb cubes in a single layer and leave them undisturbed for 3–4 minutes. The meat will first release its juices; once they evaporate and the bottom of the pot starts to sizzle, stir and brown the lamb for another 5–6 minutes. The meat goes into the cooking water only after it has developed a brown crust; meat dropped directly into water never gains this flavor.

Drain the chickpeas soaked overnight, add them to the lamb, and pour in 1.2 liters of hot water. Once it boils, skim off the foam, lower the heat, leave the lid slightly ajar, and simmer for 70–75 minutes. The lamb should pull apart when pressed with a fork, and the chickpeas should be soft enough to mash between your fingers without their skins falling apart. Add half the salt (4 g) at the end of this stage.

Trim the root ends of the fresh garlic and any dried parts of the leaves, then cut the stalks into 3 cm pieces. Cut the scallions to the same length and add both to the pot. Cook for 12–15 minutes, until the garlic pieces darken slightly and yield to the tip of a knife. If cooked longer, they will fall apart and disappear into the dish, leaving only their aroma.

Put the yogurt in a large bowl, add the egg and flour, and whisk until smooth. The flour and egg act as binders: as the yogurt warms, its casein proteins tend to clump and release liquid, while the starch in the flour and the protein in the egg help hold that liquid. That is why the yogurt mixture is prepared cold before being added to the pot.

Whisking constantly, add hot liquid from the pot to the yogurt one ladle at a time. Continue for 5–6 ladles, until the bottom of the bowl feels distinctly warm but not hot to the touch. Pour the tempered mixture into the pot. Over the lowest heat, stir continuously in the same direction with a wooden spoon. Keep stirring until a few bubbles appear on the surface (10 minutes), and do not let it boil vigorously. If the temperature rises too quickly, the yogurt will curdle before the flour-and-egg mixture sets, and it cannot be brought back together. Add the remaining 4 g of salt at this stage.

Melt 15 g of butter in a small pan. Remove the pan from the heat, then add the dried mint and stir for 20 seconds; if the mint stays in the hot butter longer, it will darken and turn bitter. Divide the stew among bowls and drizzle the mint butter over it. Serve hot. When reheating leftovers, do not bring the stew to a boil; warm it over low heat, stirring.