Meatballs and kebabs
The recipe for this Istanbul specialty is short, but the technique takes time: it contains no bread, breadcrumbs, or egg, just ground beef, onion juice, and spices. Long kneading releases the meat proteins that hold the mixture together. That is why the mixture is kneaded for at least 10 minutes and rested for one day.
Finely grate the onion, place it in cheesecloth, and squeeze the juice into a bowl. Do not add the pulp to the mixture; it releases liquid during cooking and can make the bread-free kofta fall apart.
Put the ground beef, onion juice, salt, black pepper, and cumin in a large bowl. Knead for at least 10 minutes, pressing with the heel of your hand and occasionally slapping the mixture against the side of the bowl. The proteins have bound when the mixture starts to stick to your hand and holds a fingerprint.
Wet your hands, take walnut-sized portions of the mixture, roll them between your palms, and flatten them to 1 cm thick. This makes eighteen patties; press a slight dimple into the center of each with your thumb.
Heat a grill or cast-iron skillet until very hot, without oil. Arrange the patties with space between them and cook undisturbed for 6 to 7 minutes, until a dark brown crust forms on the underside.
Flip each patty once with tongs and do not press it; pressing releases the juices. Cook the second side for 6 to 7 minutes. When cut open, a patty should have no pink remaining and the juices should run clear.
Cover the kneaded mixture and refrigerate it for at least 12 hours, preferably one day. If it is not rested, it may fall apart on the grill and cannot hold its shape without bread.
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