Dentex is a large reef fish found in the deep waters of the Aegean, with firm white flesh. Because it is expensive, it is baked whole rather than filleted and cut into portions before cooking. Onion and tomato underneath release moisture as they cook, helping keep the fish from drying out.
Preheat the oven to 200°C / 390°F. Scrape the scales from tail to head. Rinse the cavity under cold water and pat the fish dry inside and out. Its skin should feel smooth when you run your hand along the body.
On each side, make three diagonal cuts 4 cm apart, cutting down until the knife reaches the bones. Place three thyme sprigs and four lemon slices in the cavity. Press the salt and black pepper into the cuts with your fingers.
Cut the onions into rings and the tomatoes into 1 cm slices, then spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Drizzle with half the olive oil and pour in the water along the edge. The vegetables should cover the bottom of the pan completely; uncovered spots may burn and smell bitter.
Place the fish on the vegetable bed, drizzle the remaining olive oil over it, and put the pan on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for 30 minutes. Pull the dorsal fin at its base; if it comes away without resistance, the fish is done. If it resists, bake for 5 minutes more.
Remove the pan from the oven and let the fish rest for 5 minutes. Run a knife along the backbone and lift off the top fillet. Then grip the backbone by the tail and pull it away in one piece. Spoon the vegetables onto plates and serve with the remaining lemon.
Do not cut into the fish as soon as it comes out of the oven. Let it rest for 5 minutes first; otherwise, the flesh may stick to the bones and fall apart on the plate.
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