Brandade de Morue — French Salt Cod and Potato Spread

Put the desalted salt cod in a pot with the milk, bay leaf, and two garlic cloves. Cook at a gentle simmer, without boiling, for 8–10 minutes; boiling milk can toughen the fish. Lift out the fish with a slotted spoon. Strain and reserve the milk.

Run your fingers over the cod and remove all the skin and bones; even the smallest bone will be noticeable in the spread. Flake the fish with your fingers. Take your time with this step; it gives brandade its texture.

Set the pot over low heat and work the mixture with a wooden spoon. Slowly drizzle in a thin stream of olive oil, then add a ladleful of warm milk. Continue alternating the two, a little at a time. The mixture will look glossy after each addition, then absorb the liquid. Stop when it hangs from the spoon in a soft ribbon without breaking and is easy to spread.

Add the lemon juice, nutmeg, and black pepper, then taste—do not add salt, because the cod is already salty enough. Spread the mixture in a baking dish and bake at 200°C / 390°F until the top is browned in spots. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve hot with slices of toasted bread.