Calabacitas — Mexican Zucchini, Corn, and Tomato Sauté

Halve the zucchini lengthwise, then cut it into 1 cm thick half-moons; thinner slices may fall apart in the pan. Dice the onion and tomatoes into 1 cm pieces, cut the jalapeño into thin rings, and mince the garlic. If using fresh corn on the cob, scrape off the kernels with the back of a knife.

Add the corn kernels to the skillet and leave them undisturbed for 2 minutes. Stir, then let them sit for 2 more minutes. The kernels should be browned in spots and smell lightly smoky. This browning is the one step that balances the sweetness of calabacitas.

Add the zucchini and diced tomatoes to the skillet. Season with salt and black pepper, and cook uncovered over medium-high heat. The zucchini will first release liquid, then it will evaporate. The dish is ready when the bottom of the pan is dry and the zucchini edges are lightly browned. Pierce a piece with a fork: it should offer slight resistance. If the fork slides in easily, the zucchini is overcooked.

Lower the heat. Crumble the cheese over the top with your hands, cover the skillet, and let it sit for 3 minutes. The cheese should be partly melted and soft in places, not fully melted; in calabacitas, cheese is a little surprise between bites, not a sauce. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and serve hot.