Ciris is a slender-leaved spring wild green that appears as soon as the snowmelt recedes, and its season lasts only a few weeks. It has a pungent smell when raw, which goes away in the boiling water. After boiling, it is sautéed with onion and finished with eggs.
Remove any yellow leaves and trim the root ends. Ciris greens hold soil, so wash them three times in plenty of water; there should be no sand at the bottom of the last rinse. Cut the leaves into 3 cm pieces.
Boil the greens in unsalted boiling water for 6 minutes, then drain and discard all the cooking water. Press them in the colander to remove excess liquid.
Melt the butter in a skillet, add the diced onion, and sauté over medium heat until the edges begin to take on a little color.
Add the drained ciris greens to the skillet with the salt and red pepper flakes. Sauté, stirring, for 8 minutes. If liquid pools at the bottom of the skillet, turn up the heat and let it evaporate; a watery sauté will not hold the eggs.
Beat the eggs, pour them into the skillet, and stir immediately. Once the eggs cling to the greens and set into curds, turn off the heat before they dry out.
Discard the boiling water and do not add it back to the dish; the pungent smell of the ciris stays in that water.
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