Fior di Latte Gelato | Egg-Free Italian Milk Gelato

Whisk the sugar, milk powder, and cornstarch thoroughly in a bowl. Mixing them while dry helps the powder dissolve without lumps; adding the cornstarch directly to the milk can leave small lumps that will not dissolve.

Pour the cold milk into a pot and gradually whisk in the dry mixture. Keep whisking until no lumps remain at the bottom of the pot; the mixture should be smooth before you turn on the heat.

Set the pot over medium-low heat and stir constantly with a spatula, scraping the bottom. Remove it from the heat when the thermometer reads 85°C / 185°F, or when the mixture coats the back of a spoon and a line drawn through it with your finger stays visible. This temperature swells the starch and thickens the base; boiling it gives the milk a cooked flavor.

Stir in the cold cream and transfer the base to a clean bowl. Set the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water and stir until the mixture feels cool against the back of your hand. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate.

Churn the rested base in an ice cream maker until it reaches a soft-serve consistency. Without a machine, pour it into a shallow, wide metal container and place it in the freezer. When the edges begin to freeze, remove the container and whisk the frozen parts into the center. Repeat until the mixture is evenly frozen and firm enough to scoop.

Transfer the gelato to a covered container and freeze until firm enough to scoop. Gelato is served softer than cream-based ice cream; take it out of the freezer before serving and let it stand until a spoon slides in easily.