Gnocchi | Homemade Italian Potato Dumplings

Wash the potatoes, leave the skins on, and cover them with cold water by about 3 finger-widths. Bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat. They are ready when a skewer inserted into the largest potato meets no resistance. There is one reason to leave the skins on: to keep the potatoes from absorbing water from the pot.

Drain the potatoes and, as soon as they are cool enough to handle, scrape off the skins with the back of a knife. Rice them or grate them through the finest holes directly onto the work surface; do not pile them up. Spread them in a thin layer to let the steam escape. If you skip this step, the dough will stay wet.

Sprinkle three-quarters of the flour, the salt, and the nutmeg over the mashed potatoes, then place the egg yolk in the center. Bring the mixture together by folding with your fingertips rather than kneading; developing the gluten will make the gnocchi rubbery. If the dough is slightly sticky, add the remaining flour a little at a time. Stop when it forms a ball in your palm without falling apart; too much flour will hurt the texture.

Divide the dough into four pieces. On a floured surface, roll each piece into a rope about finger-thick (approximately 2 cm) and cut it into 2 cm pieces. Press each piece against the back of a fork and roll it downward with your thumb to make grooves on one side and a hollow on the other. Arrange the pieces on a floured cloth without letting them touch.

Melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Once the foam subsides and the butter turns hazelnut-brown, add the sage leaves and sizzle for 20 seconds. Add the gnocchi and 2 tablespoons cooking water, then toss the skillet to coat them; a spoon can crush the dumplings. Remove from the heat, toss with Parmesan and black pepper, and serve immediately.