Nwasser | Tunisian Chicken and Steamed-Dough Squares

Mix the flour, semolina, and salt. Gradually add the olive oil and warm water, then knead for 8 minutes. The dough should be firm and smooth, with the resistance of pasta dough. Wrap it in plastic wrap and let it rest for 20 minutes; the stretched gluten needs to relax before you roll it out.

Divide the dough into four equal portions and roll each one out on a floured counter until 1 mm thick. With a knife or pastry wheel, cut 1 cm strips, then cut across them to make 1 cm squares. Toss the squares with plenty of flour and spread them in a single layer on a floured tray.

Finely chop the onion and soften it in olive oil for 7 minutes. Add the tabil, turmeric, cinnamon, crushed rosebuds, and black pepper; stir for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chicken thighs, water, and salt, then bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat and cook until the chicken is tender enough to pull away from the bone. Add the cooked chickpeas during the final 10 minutes. Insert a thermometer into the thickest part of a thigh without touching the bone; the internal temperature should reach 74°C / 165°F. Do not remove the chicken from the heat until you have checked it.

Loosely pile the squares in the top of a couscous steamer, with the sauce simmering in the bottom so its steam cooks the dough. Steam for 20 minutes without pressing the squares down. Transfer them to a tray, moisten with a ladleful of hot sauce, and separate them with a fork.

Return the squares to the top tier and steam for 15 more minutes. During this second steaming, the dough absorbs the sauce and turns orange. Taste a square; it should not taste floury. If it does, steam it for 5 more minutes.

Spread the squares on a wide platter and moisten them with another ladleful of sauce. Arrange the chicken pieces and chickpeas on top. Serve the remaining sauce in a separate bowl; nwasser should be moist, not soupy, and diners can add more sauce at the table.