Karagoz, named for the black band at the base of its tail, is a firm-fleshed fish related to sea bream, commonly found along the Marmara and Aegean coasts. Its flattened body and thick skin make it well suited to grilling whole; the skin helps retain moisture as it cooks. Slashes cut along the back let heat reach the bones so the inside cooks before the outside burns.
Scrape the scales from tail to head and clean the fish. Rinse and dry the cavity. You can feel any remaining scales as rough spots when you run your hand along the body; they will stick to the skin on the grill.
On both sides of each fish, make three diagonal slashes along the back, spaced 3 cm apart. Stop when the knife touches a bone; the point where you feel resistance is the right depth. Place a piece of thyme in each slash.
Place one bay leaf and one lemon slice in each cavity. Brush the outside of the fish with olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and black pepper, working the seasoning into the slashes.
Place the fish on a preheated, oiled wire grill over glowing, ash-covered coals. Cook undisturbed for 9 minutes. The underside is ready when the edges of the slashes open and the flesh inside begins to turn white.
Close the two sides of the wire grill around the fish and turn it over in one motion. Grill for 8 minutes more. The fish is done when the dorsal fin pulls out easily when you hold it at the base. Serve with arugula and red onion, squeezing the remaining lemon over the top.
Cut the slashes all the way down to the bones; shallow cuts will not let heat reach the inside, and the skin can char before the back of the fish is cooked.
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