Kokoreç Sandwich | Cumin-Spiced Street Food

Fold one end of the intestine inward, then turn it inside out in one piece under running water. Spread the inner surface flat on a work surface and scrape it from end to end with the back of a knife until the gray layer is completely removed; any remaining layer will smell bitter when grilled over the embers. Rub with coarse salt, rinse under running water, then turn it right side out.

Rinse the intestine several times in cold water mixed with apple cider vinegar, then rinse under running water and dry thoroughly. Wet intestine will slide on the skewer and will not stay wrapped.

Cut the lamb caul fat into thin strips and place them with the intestines on a flat skewer. First thread a few lengths of intestine along the skewer, then wrap the rest tightly around this core, overlapping each turn with the previous one. The finished wrapping should form a smooth, firm cylinder.

Grill the skewer 20 cm above embers whose flames have died down and whose surface is covered with ash, turning it constantly. For the first half an hour, turn it slowly so the fat inside melts and moves outward; only then should the casing brown. It is ready when the outside is dark brown and the skewer makes a dry sound when tapped.

Slide the grilled mixture off the skewer and finely chop it with two knives on a hot griddle or in a large cast-iron skillet. Add the diced tomato and pepper and toss a few times. Only at this stage add the cumin, thyme, Turkish red pepper flakes, black pepper, and salt. Seasoning on the griddle keeps the spices from burning; added over the embers, they would toast and turn bitter.

Cut the half loaves lengthwise and warm the cut sides at the edge of the griddle for one to two seconds. Fill generously with the mixture, press the bread closed, and serve hot; the filling will make the bread soggy if it sits.