Lahsun Chutney | North Indian Garlic Paste with Dried Red Chilies

Remove the stems from the dried chilies and shake out some of the seeds. Toast them in a dry skillet over low heat, turning constantly, until they darken by one shade, their skins blister in spots, and they release a sharp aroma. Do not toast them for more than 1 minute; browned chilies will make the chutney bitter. Warm the cumin in the same skillet for about 10 seconds, then remove it.

Put the toasted chilies and cumin in a mortar and pound until no large pieces remain. Add the peeled garlic cloves and salt, then continue pounding. The salt helps draw out the garlic's moisture; the mixture will become paste-like within a few minutes. If using a food processor, pulse it—the chutney should not become a puree.

Heat the oil in a small skillet until just before it starts to smoke. Transfer the chutney to a deep bowl, then slowly pour the hot oil over it along the side; the mixture will sizzle and bubble. Stir and let it cool to room temperature. The oil brings out the spices' aroma and coats the surface of the chutney. Store it in a sealed container in the refrigerator; this recipe is not designed for long-term storage in a jar. Discard it if its smell or appearance changes.